Max Bubeck on his Chout - link to an interview with Max
Fastest unstreamlined Indian - ever!
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Sunday, 9 September 2012
Rob McIntyre's Chout update
Frame is almost sorted, mvoed the rear brake cross shaft mounts back
about 10mm to clear the bottom edge of the primary, drilled out the old
frame tubes so we could put in new tubes to suit the chief
motor, fitted the '30s chief headstock and added a brace, to fill in
the ugly gap more than anything else. Thought about, and created a
solution to the kicker arm position, had the oil and fuel line fittings
added to the tank and got the seat mount pivot milled out ready for my
welding.
It's interesting, looking at others chout builds and seeing how other
people come up wiht solutions ot similar problems - all work just as
well but each is quite different for the same problem!!!
I was worrying about how to get the bottom tube to clear the
heads - TRex (a NZ Indian fellow) cam up with the solution of bending
the 'seat post' back slightly and becauce I was using Ricardo heads
which are a bit lower than standard '40s chief ones should give us
enough clearance. He was right and this works a treat....
Shows my solution to fitting the seat pivot. I didn't want a
big ugly bracket sticking up so had another mate turn up the tube on his
lathe and then had the man with a mill cut out the top tube - all I need
to do now is weld it in and give the seat mount a bit of a bend and
it'll be nice and tidy below the line of the frame.
resized5 - This is my really clever solution to moving the kicker arm
back a little. As you all know a chief motor is a bit bigger than a
scout one, so one of the things you need to do is relocate the kicker
arm. I had a couple of other ideas before this one but they were far
too complex........ this is a piece of steel bar, cut and ground down
to shape, a couple of holes drilled in it, bit of machining on the frame
(this was sent out to PG2000 in Wellington NZ) and it all matched up and
worked a treat.
Next on the agenda is to sort the motor/gearbox, rear guard and tank
then that is about all there is to a chout so I should be ready to ride
it - hahhaha, almost!!
about 10mm to clear the bottom edge of the primary, drilled out the old
frame tubes so we could put in new tubes to suit the chief
motor, fitted the '30s chief headstock and added a brace, to fill in
the ugly gap more than anything else. Thought about, and created a
solution to the kicker arm position, had the oil and fuel line fittings
added to the tank and got the seat mount pivot milled out ready for my
welding.
people come up wiht solutions ot similar problems - all work just as
well but each is quite different for the same problem!!!
I was worrying about how to get the bottom tube to clear the
heads - TRex (a NZ Indian fellow) cam up with the solution of bending
the 'seat post' back slightly and becauce I was using Ricardo heads
which are a bit lower than standard '40s chief ones should give us
enough clearance. He was right and this works a treat....
Shows my solution to fitting the seat pivot. I didn't want a
big ugly bracket sticking up so had another mate turn up the tube on his
lathe and then had the man with a mill cut out the top tube - all I need
to do now is weld it in and give the seat mount a bit of a bend and
it'll be nice and tidy below the line of the frame.
resized5 - This is my really clever solution to moving the kicker arm
back a little. As you all know a chief motor is a bit bigger than a
scout one, so one of the things you need to do is relocate the kicker
arm. I had a couple of other ideas before this one but they were far
too complex........ this is a piece of steel bar, cut and ground down
to shape, a couple of holes drilled in it, bit of machining on the frame
(this was sent out to PG2000 in Wellington NZ) and it all matched up and
worked a treat.
Next on the agenda is to sort the motor/gearbox, rear guard and tank
then that is about all there is to a chout so I should be ready to ride
it - hahhaha, almost!!
Chout on ebay!
HERE
worth a read and look for some hints and tips
Indian 101 Chout.
This is a 1928-1930 Frame Modified to for a 1939 Chief Motor. I have owned other Chouts
before and after seeing what worked and what didn't, I decided to build one the way I felt worked
best. Over the years I picked the best items from loads of parts I bought to build this Chout.
My first intention was to keep the lines of the 101 Scout. I also wanted it to look period like
it rolled out of a barn. Everything we brazed and any area we worked on the frame or bike was treated
or left alone to look like the original parts. I NEVER HAD ANY INTENTION OF PAINTING THIS
BIKE. All parts were either nice patina/old paint, surface rust or original paint. No parts were used that
were rotted in any way. All work we did was recorded in a journal and documented. All receipts,
the journal and paperwork will transfer to new owner. In my state a notorized Bill of Sale is all that
is required to transfer title as Vermont does not offer titles past 15 years old. I may have an old 101
title around if it would be useful to register for the new buyer. Please ask me to look if this is a important
for you to register. As of now the bike is only sold with a bill of sale, the title is not included but I might be
able to help.
The motor and transmission we used was a very nice 1939 complete motor and not built from a pile of parts.
It was completely rebuilt by HP cycles in Berwick Maine. I have all receipts for the build and I can put potential buyers in
touch with the owner to discuss the work if necessary. The builder that worked for HP has since
retired but he worked on Indians and Aircraft work his whole life, an ace mechanic. In the pictures you
will see a Morris Magneto that drops in the distributor hole and is driven by the oil Pump. Engine has
been fitted in the frame. Last piece of the engine install is to finish the kicker assembly .
The period modication was to use a 20s Chief Kicker gear. This was confirmed used on a period
racer Chout that is in the Wheels thru Time Museum. I have a 20s Chief
kicker gear but it is worn and I have yet to locate another but I can aid in that location
for the new buyer. Another option is to braze a new pin just behind the original pin and use
the stock Chief arm and gear. George has successfully done this on another customers Chout
that was built about 5 years ago. Or lastly a stepped back pin bracket can created which
I had and worked well on a previous Chout I owned. All work can be done for the buyer after
the sale for a shop rate of $40 per hour. My thoughts is the most period correct fix is to
use the 20s Chief kicker gear which is why I haven't pursued the latter fixes.
I did all the frame and chassis modification in George Yarocki's shop with his help and
Tim Raindle (one of the best new guys working on 101s I know). All work was brazed and not welded, as welding
if done near the frame castings will turn them very brittle and unsafe. Although alot of people
may have problems with this, the frame was the nicest original frame I have ever owned. I wanted a straight Solid, no rot frame, or essentially one
that didn't need any work done to it. But just to be sure, we put the original 101 frame in the frame jig to test it
before we started any work to be sure it not structurally compromised. Then we stretched it
approximately 2 inches in the rear and 2 inches on the kicker down tube and 2 inches in front
down tubes. Then we used a set of 20s Chief NOS fork legs and 20s Chief links. We did this because modifying the
frame changed the ride height and angle of the chassis so we needed to bring the front end up a little. We wanted it to ride level.
To utilize the 101 front brake we had to braze the front brake anchor on which can be seen in the pictures.
We figured this was the way to go by talk to some old timers who did it back in day. We had to changed and repined the
fork stem because the 101 frame has a different diameter stem then the chief forks had. The wheels were rebuilt and tested, all recorded in the
journal. The fenders fit fine but the front fender road a little high due to the longer chief
forks so we made a custom front fender bracket to bring it down a little. The Headlight was an
original perfect light traded by a friend just for this project because the bike was for me.
THE HEADLIGHT THAT IS ON IT WILL NOT GO WITH THE BIKE. I said I would not sell the light and I
have to honor my word. A brand new, very nice reproduction headlight with glass lenses will go
with the sale. The headlight brackets were turned upside down and bent to look right, this was all
to get a lower streamline looked that was a period modification I was going for. The gas tank
was a super cool tank I got from Australia with old indian head logo on side, with a 22 bullet hole thru it. We repaired it with
tin as it would have been done during the period, both inside and out and tested the tank.
Because we used a later Chief engine we had to have a recirculating oil system. The tank has a
hole cut in the bottom to mount a plate that will hold all the oil piping. All the fittings
are there and the tank can be completed at the shop for a shop rate of $40 an hour after the
sale. There will be a generator mount included with the sale but my intention was to run this
with a 12volt alternator and convert the headlight and tailight to modern light for a brighter
light (bulbs for 12volt brighter light will be included in the sale). No generator or alternator goes with the sale.
The bike will run off the magneto so as of not no electrical is included with the bike. My goal was to run it and iron out the electrical later.
Again this is some that can be addressed after the sale for a shop rate of $40. The seat is a reproduction seat that we worked to look worn, and it looks great.
The brake lever is a very nice original. The bars were nice custom period bars that were cut and shortened to flat track as best I can tell. It gives that sport ride stance.
There is a cool old paint tool box. AN NOS SIDE STAND....only nos 101 stand I have ever seen. Two battery boxes, one original, one repop......bottom rotted out of original
almost all of them do so I figured it could be run with rotted box, use repop (not direction I would go) or cut the bottom out of repop and weld to old one (what I intended to do)
Jockey shift assembly is new from Rockys but the shifter lever is an original Indian Head Robbins.
worth a read and look for some hints and tips
Indian 101 Chout.
This is a 1928-1930 Frame Modified to for a 1939 Chief Motor. I have owned other Chouts
before and after seeing what worked and what didn't, I decided to build one the way I felt worked
best. Over the years I picked the best items from loads of parts I bought to build this Chout.
My first intention was to keep the lines of the 101 Scout. I also wanted it to look period like
it rolled out of a barn. Everything we brazed and any area we worked on the frame or bike was treated
or left alone to look like the original parts. I NEVER HAD ANY INTENTION OF PAINTING THIS
BIKE. All parts were either nice patina/old paint, surface rust or original paint. No parts were used that
were rotted in any way. All work we did was recorded in a journal and documented. All receipts,
the journal and paperwork will transfer to new owner. In my state a notorized Bill of Sale is all that
is required to transfer title as Vermont does not offer titles past 15 years old. I may have an old 101
title around if it would be useful to register for the new buyer. Please ask me to look if this is a important
for you to register. As of now the bike is only sold with a bill of sale, the title is not included but I might be
able to help.
The motor and transmission we used was a very nice 1939 complete motor and not built from a pile of parts.
It was completely rebuilt by HP cycles in Berwick Maine. I have all receipts for the build and I can put potential buyers in
touch with the owner to discuss the work if necessary. The builder that worked for HP has since
retired but he worked on Indians and Aircraft work his whole life, an ace mechanic. In the pictures you
will see a Morris Magneto that drops in the distributor hole and is driven by the oil Pump. Engine has
been fitted in the frame. Last piece of the engine install is to finish the kicker assembly .
The period modication was to use a 20s Chief Kicker gear. This was confirmed used on a period
racer Chout that is in the Wheels thru Time Museum. I have a 20s Chief
kicker gear but it is worn and I have yet to locate another but I can aid in that location
for the new buyer. Another option is to braze a new pin just behind the original pin and use
the stock Chief arm and gear. George has successfully done this on another customers Chout
that was built about 5 years ago. Or lastly a stepped back pin bracket can created which
I had and worked well on a previous Chout I owned. All work can be done for the buyer after
the sale for a shop rate of $40 per hour. My thoughts is the most period correct fix is to
use the 20s Chief kicker gear which is why I haven't pursued the latter fixes.
I did all the frame and chassis modification in George Yarocki's shop with his help and
Tim Raindle (one of the best new guys working on 101s I know). All work was brazed and not welded, as welding
if done near the frame castings will turn them very brittle and unsafe. Although alot of people
may have problems with this, the frame was the nicest original frame I have ever owned. I wanted a straight Solid, no rot frame, or essentially one
that didn't need any work done to it. But just to be sure, we put the original 101 frame in the frame jig to test it
before we started any work to be sure it not structurally compromised. Then we stretched it
approximately 2 inches in the rear and 2 inches on the kicker down tube and 2 inches in front
down tubes. Then we used a set of 20s Chief NOS fork legs and 20s Chief links. We did this because modifying the
frame changed the ride height and angle of the chassis so we needed to bring the front end up a little. We wanted it to ride level.
To utilize the 101 front brake we had to braze the front brake anchor on which can be seen in the pictures.
We figured this was the way to go by talk to some old timers who did it back in day. We had to changed and repined the
fork stem because the 101 frame has a different diameter stem then the chief forks had. The wheels were rebuilt and tested, all recorded in the
journal. The fenders fit fine but the front fender road a little high due to the longer chief
forks so we made a custom front fender bracket to bring it down a little. The Headlight was an
original perfect light traded by a friend just for this project because the bike was for me.
THE HEADLIGHT THAT IS ON IT WILL NOT GO WITH THE BIKE. I said I would not sell the light and I
have to honor my word. A brand new, very nice reproduction headlight with glass lenses will go
with the sale. The headlight brackets were turned upside down and bent to look right, this was all
to get a lower streamline looked that was a period modification I was going for. The gas tank
was a super cool tank I got from Australia with old indian head logo on side, with a 22 bullet hole thru it. We repaired it with
tin as it would have been done during the period, both inside and out and tested the tank.
Because we used a later Chief engine we had to have a recirculating oil system. The tank has a
hole cut in the bottom to mount a plate that will hold all the oil piping. All the fittings
are there and the tank can be completed at the shop for a shop rate of $40 an hour after the
sale. There will be a generator mount included with the sale but my intention was to run this
with a 12volt alternator and convert the headlight and tailight to modern light for a brighter
light (bulbs for 12volt brighter light will be included in the sale). No generator or alternator goes with the sale.
The bike will run off the magneto so as of not no electrical is included with the bike. My goal was to run it and iron out the electrical later.
Again this is some that can be addressed after the sale for a shop rate of $40. The seat is a reproduction seat that we worked to look worn, and it looks great.
The brake lever is a very nice original. The bars were nice custom period bars that were cut and shortened to flat track as best I can tell. It gives that sport ride stance.
There is a cool old paint tool box. AN NOS SIDE STAND....only nos 101 stand I have ever seen. Two battery boxes, one original, one repop......bottom rotted out of original
almost all of them do so I figured it could be run with rotted box, use repop (not direction I would go) or cut the bottom out of repop and weld to old one (what I intended to do)
Jockey shift assembly is new from Rockys but the shifter lever is an original Indian Head Robbins.
Friday, 20 July 2012
138mph Chout
Jim Robinson's Chout was timed at 138mph at El Mirage, its fitted with Bob Nichols' Racing side by side conrods and cams. Close up of the twin carb cyilnders on the last picture.
Wednesday, 27 June 2012
Tuesday, 19 June 2012
Allan Lowson's Chout
"It has: '31 '101' frame with a 'snub nose' (no magneto drive) '48 Chief motor
shoehorned in, 741 front end running a Brembo/Goldwing disc brake, '39 Chief
rear hub & brake, Sport Scout tanks, Bendix carb, Fairbanks-Morse mag,
Mercedes 12 v generator, alloy rims and custom fenders with saddlebags. Haven't
even had time to start it yet as away from home for a few weeks. It keeps my
stroker Scout (Commando primary/trans/rear wheel and drum front end) company"
Sunday, 20 May 2012
Tuesday, 1 May 2012
Sunday, 29 April 2012
Update on Ander's Chout build
Its on Peter Ossian's bench and you can catch up here. Chout build part 1 parts 2-4 are on the blog too.. coming together nicely.
Monday, 5 March 2012
A brace of Standard Chouts
Wayne from Western Australia sent me these pictures of a fine pair of Standard Scout frames Chouts that he built one for himself and the other for his mate Chris
Wayne's bike above is a 344 Chief powerplant in a 1934 frame
Chris's is in a 1932 frame
Wayne's bike above is a 344 Chief powerplant in a 1934 frame
Chris's is in a 1932 frame
Saturday, 3 March 2012
Saturday, 4 February 2012
Bustin' Loose part 2
Found a little more here 1940 motor, Ollie cams, Bonneville carb, HD Knucklehead transmission in a 1928 101 chassis
Tuesday, 20 December 2011
Saturday, 3 December 2011
Spotted
Here My Classic Bike Blog a very nicely finished Chout... info build story, owners details gratefully received
Thursday, 1 December 2011
Thursday, 10 November 2011
Rob McIntyre's 101 Chout build part 1
I’d been thinking about another bike project for some time and was likely to head down the usual road of a 741B based starting point. These are reasonably plentiful here in New Zealand and as I’d had one for nearly 10 years before my ’47 Chief I had a fair idea of how they held together.
I also wasn’t entirely sure what I wanted to build but had a couple of ideas rattling around in my head of a hardtail, jockey shift, probably bobber style or maybe racer, just the usual thoughts we all have while dreaming about our next bike!
Anyway, it’s the middle of 2011 and a friend has been asked to clear a collection of bikes and parts from a friend of his who’d had a stroke – one of the projects was a Chout that I could see great potential in so took the plunge and laid down my cash for:
18” 741B wheels front and rear
cases that are stamped with a ’52 serial number
late ‘40s barrels
Ricardo heads
possibly early ‘30s transmission
M88 carb
101 tank
Motolamp headlight
Magneto
a box of motor internals
plus another box of assorted bits and pieces
(insert mock up photos)
First thing to do when I got it all home was go through and see exactly what I’ve got and what is potentially missing as the deal was access to the parts collection so I could fill in any gaps before it all got sold off. A couple of trips back to the parts pile provided 80-90% of what I’ll need, assuming I don’t change my mind too much while it progresses, although that is highly likely.
So what’s the plan of attack? Well, IORNZ have our national Indian rally early each year so the goal is to have this ready for 2013 which gives me about 18mths – should be plenty of time, how hard can it be!
My initial thoughts are along the lines of:
16” rear with 741B hub and drum – I like the idea of this hub/drum combination rather than a 16” Chief wheel because it will mean I can run different size rear sprockets and the frame already has a cross over mount for the brake shaft.
18” front with double 741B brake drums back to back – Obviously this means I’m going to have to think up some way of having 2 cables pull from the 1 lever but that doesn’t seem to be too complex to resolve.
Engine size around 80” with cams and carb to ensure it has enough power that it will be fun to ride – the barrels are currently different bores so not entirely sure what size this will end up, probably not too outrageous, I still want it to be usable.
Magneto ignition – with a mag I can simplify the electrical system and of course you can always get home even with a flat battery.
Initially I’ll stick with the standard 3spd trans but a Hanlon 4spd is on the wish list when I can afford it – I put one of these in my Chief and it’s changed the whole rideability of the thing.
Bobber style with no front guard and a chopped back one
That’s the thoughts for now anyway, I guess we will see as progress is made what works and what doesn’t both visually, mechanically and financially.
I’m a computer nerd by day and have a few self taught engineering skills which should be enough for me to do as much as I can in my shed. I reckon half the fun is figuring out challenges along the way and when it’s finished standing back with a beer, looking at your work and saying ‘yeah, I did that!’
My intention is to run updates with photos as I progress (although this doesn’t always happen on these types of projects), hopefully describing all my problems, solutions and successes until the day finally arrives when it comes back to life, I can give it a kick in the guts and ride off into the sunset......
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